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Ski Mountaineering Guide Course / Aspirant Exam

The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course is the 2nd step in the ski mountaineering guide education and certification process. The Ski Mountaineering Course is designed for skilled skiers and climbers who wish to learn the skills and techniques used while instructing and guiding on complex glacial terrain. The course covers the tools used when guiding and instructing on glacial alpine routes. It also covers management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, management and movement of multiple clients, and small team rescues. Emphasis is placed on effectively managing risks and maximizing client rewards.

All candidates must have successfully completed the Ski Guide Course in order to be considered for enrollment into the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course.

Course Area:

The course will include multi-day ski tours and peak ascents. The course areas include, but are not limited to, the Cascades, European Alps and the Chugach Range of Alaska.

Course Length:

The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course and Aspirant Exam is 10-days in length.

Ski Mountaineering Guide / Aspirant Exam:

The Aspirant Guide Program is designed to serve as an intermediate step in the process of becoming a certified guide. The Aspirant Exam occurs as an integral part of the AMGA advanced level courses and is specific to the discipline of the course. It is intended to help determine whether or not a candidate’s guiding skills meet the minimum standards appropriate for guiding and serves as preparation for the final certification exam. The standard for the Aspirant Guide Exam is at a level appropriate for guiding clients professionally with only indirect supervision. Furthermore, the essential skills and abilities of the Aspirant Guide need to be comparable to those of a full guide.

The Ski Mountaineering Guide Course will be divided into two components:

  • Component One includes instruction and practical experience.
  • Component Two includes assessment and examination of the skills needed to achieve Aspirant status.

During the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course candidates will be expected to carry out guiding assignments given by the course instructors. The majority of course time is spent with students leading ascents and descents in complex ski mountaineering environments. Candidates will serve as guides to the instructors and other course participants. During the 3-day Ski Mountaineering Guide Aspirant Exam candidates will be assessed and examined at the certification exam level on their ability to perform specific objectives on terrain and in conditions appropriate to the ski mountaineering discipline.

The Ski Mountaineering Course is now pass/fail in nature. Skills that are a prerequisite to enrollment of the course will be assessed during the first few days of the course. If a candidate does not perform at the required level for course entry they will be dropped from the advanced course at that time and will be required to retake the entire course at a later date.

Skills that are an integral part of the course curriculum will be examined at the exam certification level towards the end of the course, after the candidate has had opportunity to practice them. If a candidate demonstrates acceptable performance on any of the assessment drills early in the course they can be checked off as “Pass”.

Prerequisites for Ski Mountaineering Guide Course:

  • You are a current Individual Member of the AMGA.
  • You have successfully completed the Ski Guide Course. Provide documentation of course completion on program application.
  • Provide documentation of completed recommendations from Ski Guide Course evaluation.
  • Provide an updated ski mountaineering resume showing each of the following:
    • Since completing the Ski Guide Course you mock guided/guided at least 10 days in ski mountaineering terrain. Documentation must include date, specific location, total elevation gain and loss, total horizontal mileage, maximum slope angle, and number of mock clients/clients.
    • You have led or shared lead on 10 different alpine routes, two of which should be at least mid 5th class rock, snow and ice terrain.
    • You have skied 10 descents, 5 of which should be in complex glacial terrain.
  • You are able to ascend and descend on skis an average of 6000 vertical feet per day with little problem.
  • Provide a copy of current Wilderness First Responder certification or better.
  • You have completed an AIARE Level III or CAAT Level II avalanche course.

Skills taught and developed during the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course:

  • Glacier travel for guiding
  • Crevasse rescue
  • Downhill guiding in complex glacial terrain
  • Advanced solutions for belay station transitions
  • Track setting and uphill guiding in complex glacial terrain
  • Advanced short roping, short pitching techniques and considerations in complex glacial terrain
  • Managing technical descents
  • Risk assessment for clients
  • Guide safety and security
  • Managing on-sight guiding techniques
  • Client care skill
  • Practice guiding at IFMGA standard
  • Application of techniques
  • Lesson planning
  • Pedagogy
  • Coaching tips and effective communication

Objectives assessed during the Ski Mountaineering Aspirant Exam:

  • Movement skills
  • Avalanche transceiver search
  • Rescue sled lowering and raising
  • Bivouac construction