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AMGA

Terrain Guidelines

When certification is an integral part of, or basis for, obtaining a permit to guide, AMGA certified guides are required to operate only within the confines of the type of certification and terrain limitations applicable to their type and level of certification.

There currently exist a number of ways in which guides can legally access terrain to practice their profession. These include; working as either an employee or subcontractor for a guide service which holds a permit to operate commercially on public lands; or, individual guides holding permits, either granted to them on the basis of their certification, or on some other basis; and last, where permits are not required.

In all cases where permits are issued to guide commercially, these permits are granted on a basis in which the individual guide’s AMGA certification either is, or is not, an integral requirement for the granting of that particular permit. In some areas, Joshua Tree National Park, for example, guides may gain permits by either working for an AMGA accredited guide service, or by being AMGA certified.

This section outlines the type of terrain on which an AMGA Certified Guide is allowed to guide, when that guide’s certification is an integral requirement for obtaining a permit. AMGA guides are allowed to work outside of these limitations when their certification is not an integral requirement for acquiring a permit.

As a member of the IFMGA, the AMGA is expected to support the policies of the IFMGA as detailed in the IFMGA Platform and by IFMGA member associations.

Many IFMGA associations (but not all) allow Aspirant level guides to guide under the direct supervision of an IFMGA Mountain Guide. The AMGA defines Aspirant level as having passed the Alpine, Rock and Ski Mountaineering Guide Aspirant Exams.

Guides who violate these guidelines may be subject to a review, and may be disciplined by the AMGA.

Terrain Descriptions

Single Pitch Instructor

The SPI will be able to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. For the purpose of the SPI Program a single pitch climb is one which:

  • Is climbed without intermediate belays
  • Allows climbers to be lowered to the ground at all times
  • presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating

The SPI Program does not cover multipitch guiding. These skills are taught in the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. SPI’s that guide clients in multipitch terrain would be guiding outside of their terrain guidelines.

Rock Instructor

Rock Instructor Certification is designed to apply to most “cragging” rock climbing areas in the US, such as Joshua Tree, Eldorado State Park, or Cannon Cliff. Approaches and descents are generally straightforward, climbs are not in a remote setting, routes are generally short and do not involve steep snow, glaciated terrain or significant short roping in either the approach, the climb or the descent.

Certified Rock Instructors are permitted to conduct their profession on all rock routes which:

  • are YDS Grade III or shorter in length
  • routes up 5.10a
  • do not have approaches or descents where extensive use of short-rope techniques is appropriate for security
  • are not remote in nature
  • do not involve technical snow, glacier travel, the use of skis or exposure to avalanche risk

Rock Guide

Rock Guide certification is designed to apply to all Rock Instructor terrain, but also includes climbs of much greater length, including big wall and aid climbs, and climbs on which significant short roping is appropriate for the safeguarding of clients on either approaches or descents. Rock Guide certification is not, however, applicable to terrain, which is alpine in nature, that is, remote, or involves technical snow or technical glaciated or icy terrain.

Certified Rock Guides are permitted to conduct their profession on all rock routes which:

  • are Grade IV or Grade V in length
  • routes up to 5.10c
  • approaches and descent may require extensive use of short-roping technique for security
  • routes may be remote in nature
  • do not involve glacier travel, the use of skis or exposure to avalanche risk.

Alpine Guide

Alpine terrain includes glaciated and non-glaciated peaks, approaches and climbs, with no limitation with respect to season and elevation. It includes rock climbs, peak ascents, waterfall climbs and expeditionary climbing.

Alpine guides are allowed to conduct their profession on all alpine and rock terrains which:

  • are YDS Grade V or shorter (for rock routes)
  • are not conducted on skis where the main objective of the outing is either a ski tour or the enjoyment of downhill skiing

YDS Grade V or longer rock routes in alpine settings are allowed to AMGA guides who hold both Alpine and Rock Guide Certification.

Ski Mountaineering Guide

AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guide certification is designed for guiding either ski tours or ski ascents/descents, on nordic, alpine touring or snow board equipment.

Ski Mountaineering Guides are permitted to conduct their profession on all terrains which:

  • includes as the main objective, either ski touring, off-piste and/or mechanized skiing/snow boarding
  • are on slopes 50 degrees or steeper
  • may employ use of short-roping techniques with the use of ice axe and crampons
  • requires travel on crevassed glaciers
  • have significant avalanche hazard
  • involve multi-pitch ice or rock

IFMGA Mountain Guide

IFMGA Mountain Guide status is awarded to guides certified as Rock Guide, Alpine, and Ski Mountaineering guides. IFMGA Mountain Guides can guide on any climbing or skiing terrain without limitation.