News and Events
3 September 2008 | AMGA Announces New MEMBER BENEFIT
Personal Accident Insurance now Available from Outdoor Recreation Insurance (ORI) via the AMGA
AMGA members (including spouses and kids) and paying clients of AMGA guides are now eligible for personal accident insurance under the AMGA group Outdoor Recreation Insurance (ORI) policy. ORI is specifically designed for snow, mountain and paddle enthusiasts. Our policy provides activity-specific benefits for ambulance and medical expenses (including emergency helicopter ambulance) and also provides a lump sum payment in case of a covered accidental death. Only persons aged 14-64 may enroll.
Interested members and clients must click on the AMGA/ORI web link to enroll and pay the applicable one-time premium. If you access the ORI website from another URL address, the site will not allow you to create an account.
AMGA members will be asked to enter their 5-digit AMGA member ID number. In addition to annual coverage, daily rates have been developed and are available to paying clients of AMGA certified guides. Clients of AMGA guides or guiding services must use their guide’s 10-digit phone number in the following format: XXX-XXX-XXXX. You may create a single account and enroll multiple clients. Otherwise, please instruct your clients that they may themselves enter the ORI website through the AMGA website and obtain coverage.
Highlights:
- “Mountain” coverage (all climbing disciplines plus hiking, trekking and trail running): $85 Per Year
- “Snow” coverage (both within a patrolled area and in the backcountry, all skiing and boarding disciplines plus snowshoeing): $75 Per Year
- “Paddle” coverage (kayaking, canoeing, rafting): $60 Per Year
A summary is attached in PDF format, which explains how our new ORI coverage augments our existing insurance programs. You may also click through our AMGA/ORI Link and browse the site for additional information.
2 September 2008 | WFR Recert at 2008 Annual Meeting
Wilderness Medical Training Center to Instruct WFR Recert at 2008 Annual Meeting
The AMGA is proud to offer a WFR Review & Recertification Course in partnership with the Wilderness Medicine Training Center in Bend, OR at the 2008 AMGA Annual Meeting. The Review & Recertification course is designed for graduates of Wilderness First Responder courses from any company. Our Review & Recertification course focuses on trauma and environmental problems. Over 60% of the course is hands-on skill review, role plays, and simulations.
Dates: Oct. 15,16,17, 2008
Cost: $200.00 (due by Oct. 1st, 2008)
Deposit: $50.00
Registration Form: Click Here
Contact: Henry Beyer, AMGA Program Director, at program.director@amga.com or 303.271.0984
All of WMTC WFR certifications are 3 years, and are accepted by all federal and state agencies.
The Wilderness Medicine Training Center(WMTC) www.wildmedcenter.com
The Wilderness Medicine Training Center was established in 1997 to provide the highest-quality training available in wilderness medicine and risk management. WMTC courses expertly meld decades of field experience and training with the latest research and technology.
WMTC provides unrivaled training for serious students of pre-hospital wilderness care and risk management. The curriculum and instructors are some of the finest in the world. Graduates receive the tools they need to prevent and handle the emergencies, accidents and illnesses they will experience in the real world. Courses are hands-on, intense, practical, and fun. They are also small enough to guarantee ample personal attention.
WMTC instructors have been carefully selected from a field of high-quality applicants to ensure that they have the right combination of outdoor, medical, and teaching experience-then they undergo the toughest instructor training program in the business. Their lessons are backed by their extensive experience in the field as guides, trip leaders, and medical officers; each has been there...and continues to go there. Every instructor is an expert in one or more outdoor pursuits and each has a wealth of practical experience and stories to share. Instructors are also highly skilled educators, adept at translating their knowledge into information you can understand and use. They make sure you learn the skills you need to make effective decisions in a wilderness environment.
WMTC Medical Courses-Learning from the Real World
All WMTC medical courses are rigorous, fun and fast-paced, with lots of hands-on practice. In general, you will spend the mornings in lecture and labs, and in the afternoons you will work on skills training and simulations. Instructors and students help cultivate an atmosphere that is intense and supportive, challenging and inspiring. Classes are designed to maximize your real-world learning. Lectures teach how the body works, so you will understand why it doesn't. The courses teach you how to think; there are no "grocery" lists. Homework and quizzes are based on realistic case studies in order to challenge and solidify your learning, and prepare you for increasingly difficult simulations.
Hands-on labs teach you the treatment skills required to perform under challenging field situations. Starting on the first day of the course, you'll face realistic simulations designed to build your field experience and judgment. Each simulation is carefully constructed to develop and challenge your skills. Your instructors use the inevitable mistakes as a source of constructive feedback that helps you and your classmates learn from what went wrong, as well as what went right.
27 August 2008 | For Immediate Release: Pinnacle National Monument News Release
Climbing Areas Reopen
Superintendent Eric Brunnemann has announced, "All sensitive areas have been reopened and will remain so until January when the raptors return and begin to select nest areas."
For details concerning who is eligible to apply for the Single Trip Guide CUAs Click Here.
21 August 2008 | For Immediate Release: The North Face Receives the AMGA 2008 Industry Award
Contact:
Pam Bennett
The North Face
501.618.3654
Betsy Novak, Executive Director
American Mountain Guides Association
303.271.0984
betsy@amga.com
www.amga.com
American Mountain Guides Association presents
2008 Industry Award to The North Face
Salt Lake City, Utah – The North Face, the world’s premier supplier of authentic, innovative and technically advanced outdoor apparel, equipment and footwear, is the 2008 recipient of the American Mountain Guides Association’s (AMGA) Industry Award. AMGA Executive Director Betsy Novak will present the award to The North Face at this year’s Summer Market Outdoor Retailer Show.
The Industry Award is presented annually to an outdoor company that has shown outstanding support through scholarships, products, and sponsorships of professional mountain guides. The North Face has partnered with the AMGA to provide educational support for the past twelve years and became a Diamond Partner in 2004. The North Face is the official sponsor of all AMGA Alpine Guide Certification exams, helping to reduce tuition costs. The North Face provides one full tuition scholarship each year for an AMGA Alpine Guide course or exam. This scholarship provides financial support for mountain guides seeking training and certification in the United States.
“It is a great honor to present this award to The North Face for their significant and ongoing support of professional mountain guides in the United States. This award is a small token of our appreciation to The North Face for their exceptional and long-term partnership with the American Mountain Guides Association.” said Betsy Novak, Executive Director of the AMGA.
About the AMGA
The American Mountain Guide’s Association (AMGA) is the premier source for training, credentials, and services for professional mountain guides and climbing instructors in the United States. The AMGA is the sole US representative of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA). For more information please visit www.amga.com.
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About The North Face
The The North Face, a division of VF Outdoor, Inc., was founded in 1968. Headquartered in San Leandro, California, the company offers the most technically advanced products in the market to accomplished climbers, mountaineers, snowsport athletes, endurance athletes, and explorers. The company's products are sold in specialty mountaineering, backpacking, running, and snowsport retailers, premium-sporting goods retailers and major outdoor specialty retail chains. For more information please visit www.thenorthface.com.
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13 August 2008 | AORE/AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course Update
Currently, all registrations for the November 2-4 AMGA SPI Course and the November 5-6 SPI Assessment are available through the AORE conference website. Once people are registered, allow two (2) to three (3) weeks to receive any pre-course texts or information. For interested participants who are not registered attendees of the AORE conference the price is 10% more than the listed price. To register or learn more please visit the AORE website. https://www.aore.org/conference/confRegistration.aspx
13 August 2008 | For Immediate Release: Mount Rainer National Park News Release
Mount Rainer National Park Commercial Use Authorization Program
Superintendent Dave Uberuaga announced today that the 2009-2010 Commercial Use Authorization(CUA) program for Mount Rainer is accepting applications for CUAs starting September 1st, 2008.
For details concerning who is eligible to apply for the Single Trip Guide CUAs Click Here.
13 August 2008 | 2008 Award Nominations Now Being Collected
The AMGA Office is now accepting nominations for the Liftime Achievement and Outstanding Guide Awards
The time has arrived to nominate guides worthy for the AMGA's Annual Lifetime Achievement Award and Outstanding Guide Award! Provided below is a description of the awards and qualifications. Please submit nominations to the AMGA Membership Director, Katie Kelly, at katie@amga.com by August 18th, 2008.
Lifetime Achievement in Mountain Guiding Award
The Lifetime Achievement in Mountain Guiding Award is to honor outstanding Americans, who by their efforts over a period of years, have made contributions of significant value to the profession of mountain guiding, and have reflected credit upon America and themselves.
The Guide who receives the Lifetime Achievement in Mountain Guiding Award embodies the following distinguishing traits:
- A citizen of the United States, who, for at least 30 years, has been actively identified with mountain guiding and has made contributions of significant value to the mountain guiding profession.
- Exhibits qualities of loyalty, integrity, and moral courage worthy of emulation.
- Be well and favorable known as a person of ability and character.
This annual award is presented at the Award Ceremony, which takes place each year at the American Mountain Guides Association Annual Meeting.
The AMGA Awards Committee and Membership would like to honor, recognize and congratulate the following individuals for their commitment and contributions to the profession of mountain guiding.
- 2007: George Hurley
- 2006: Rod Newcomb
- 2005: Jim Ratz
- 2004: Tom Hargis
American Mountain Guides Outstanding Guide Award
The American Mountain Guides Outstanding Guide Award is awarded annually for the most outstanding mountain guide achievement in the profession of mountain guiding for the year.
The Guide who receives the American Mountain Guides Association Outstanding Guide Award embodies the following distinguishing traits:
- Be an individual, who has made an outstanding contribution or achievement of significant value to the mountain guiding profession in the year.
- Be a member of the American Mountain Guides Association.
- Be well and favorable known as a person of ability and character.
This annual award is presented at the Awards Ceremony, which takes place at the American Mountain Guides Association Annual Meeting.
The AMGA Awards Committee and Membership would like to honor, recognize and congratulate the following individuals for their commitment and contributions to the profession of mountain guiding.
- 2007: Rob Hess
- 2006: Tim Connelly
- 2005: Mark Houston & Kathy Cosley
- 2004: Miles Smart
24 July 2008 | Climnbing Wall Instructor Provider Training At Annual Meeting
There will be a Climbing Wall Instructor Provider Training at the Annual Meeting in Bend, OR this year. The training will be held on the 24-25 of October. Please contact the office for more information.
24 June 2008 |The AMGA Reaches Out to College Outdoor Programs
The AMGA is honored to have the opportunity to offer the SPI Program at this year's AORE Conference in San Diego.
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course
Dates: November 2-4
Cost: $435.00 per person
Location: Joshua Tree National Park
Camping Reserved: Joshua Tree National Park Sheep Pass group site
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Assessment
Dates: November 5-6
Cost: $230.00 per person
Location: Joshua Tree National Park
Camping Reserved: Joshua Tree National Park Sheep Pass group site
Program Overview
The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program is designed to enable instructors to ‘proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting’. The program is for current, active rock climbers that have a real desire to teach the rock climbing to novices in a single pitch setting. Candidates should be passionate rock climbers that have their own equipment, regularly climb and have been rock climbing outdoors for at least 12 months. Candidates could be current University Professors that teach climbing, Climbing Instructors, Scout Leaders, Summer Camp Professionals or climbers that wish to achieve additional training, experience and certification to gain employment as a Climbing Instructor in the Outdoor Industry.
The SPI Course is not a ‘climbing’ course it is an instructor training course for current, proficient and active rock climbers and for climbing instructors who currently teach rock climbing that wish to gain the SPI Certification. The SPI is the first stage of the AMGA’s Rock Discipline guide training and certification program and will significantly help candidates that wish to work towards the next stage in the program, the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. The course teaches many instructor specific topics such as professionalism, teaching techniques, risk management, group site organization, climbing site conservation/LNT and assistance/rescue skills.
The SPI Program is a three day (27 hour) training course and separate two day (16 hour) assessment. Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification. After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to re-gain the SPI certification.
For more information and to register please contact the AMGA National Office at betsy@amga.com
.16 June 2008 | AMGA Board of Directors Adopts New Mission Statement
Golden, CO 6th June 2008
After several months of intense brainstorming by a few members of the AMGA Board of Directors, a new mission statement for the AMGA was presented to the entire board for adoption at the recent June board meeting. By a unanimous vote the following mission statement was approved:
The American Mountain Guide’s Association (AMGA) is the premier source for training, credentials, and services for professional mountain guides and climbing instructors in the United States.
16 June 2008 |Four AMGA Members Attempt First Ascent of Unnamed Peak in Alaska to Help Raise Cancer Awareness
Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center Unclimbed Peaks Alaska Expedition
Matt Farmer(IFMGA), Dawn Glanc(Certified Rock Guide), Kevin Mahoney(IFMGA), and Bayard Russell Jr(Certified Rock Instructor) are currently attempting to climb an unnamed peak in Alaska to help raise awarenes for the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center in its fight against cancer. Quoting a New York Times article from May 18th, "The Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center in Seattle is sponsoring the climb in the Fairweather Mountains of southeast Alaska. The climb is not a fund-raiser, but is meant to bring awareness to the need for continuous research." To learn more please vist the following websites:
16 June 2008 | Minutes of the IFMGA General Meeting
La Grave, 8th May 2008
3 June 2008 | Official Medical Provider of the AMGA ~ Steadman Hawkins Clinic and Vail Valley Medical Center
Calling all Certified Guides….If you don’t already know about our partnership with Vail Valley Medical Center, please read on…
Vail Valley Medical Center is the exclusive hospital provider to the AMGA ~ Benefits
- Access to Travel Clinic:
AMGA certified guides have access to the VVMC travel clinic before and/or after an international or domestic expedition. This includes scheduled consultations and services free of charge to the certified guide. Including but not limited to advice, vaccinations and prescriptions. First aid and trauma supplies are the responsibility of the guide and AMGA. Prescriptions may be given but obtaining and paying for the medications are the responsibility of the guide/AMGA. - Access to Phone Consultations:
AMGA certified guides will have, 24 hour, seven day a week access to a designated trauma specialist for phone consultations from the satellite phone in the field to assist in the management of medical emergencies. Dr. Tom Hackett and Dr. Reginald Francious are the primary contact personnel. - Sponsorship:
VVMC provides sponsorship to the AMGA for two certified guides to attend the ski and snowboard medical emergencies CME conference held annually in Beaver Creek, CO. This is a great opportunity to expand your knowledge in outdoor medical emergencies.
This is an unique opportunity for all AMGA Certified Guides. Please feel free to contact the office at 303.271.0984 orkatie@amga.com with any questions.
1 May 2008 | 2008 AMGA Annual Meeting
Smith Rock ~ Bend, Oregon
October 19-21, 2008
The AMGA Annual Meeting is a time-honored tradition that brings together the largest gathering of American mountain guides. It is the perfect opportunity for AMGA Members and guides to participate in professional development clinics, share ideas, discuss current issues and celebrate the guiding community.
This year’s Annual Meeting will take place in Smith Rock, Oregon. Smith Rock State Park encompasses 651 acres on the Oregon high desert plateau. There are over 1500 climbing routes in and around the park with some of the best sport climbs in the world. So mark your calendars, buy your tickets….we look forward to seeing you all in Oregon this fall!
Annual Meeting Schedule
- Oct. 15-16 ~ SPI Program Instructor Training (new instructors)
- Oct. 15-17 ~ WFR Recertification
- Oct. 17 ~ Board of Directors Climbing Day
- Oct. 18 ~ Technical Committee Meeting
- Oct. 19 ~ Board of Directors Meeting & Opening Night Event
- Oct. 20 ~ Professional Development Clinics & Annual Meeting Main Event
- Oct. 21 ~ Professional Development Clinics & Guide Olympics
- Oct. 21 ~ SPI Program Director Training (current instructors)
- Oct. 22 –23 ~ Instructor Pool Training
- Oct. 24-25 ~ Climbing Wall Instructor Provider Training
30 April 2008 | AMGA Forum is LIVE!
All right folks, you asked for it and so here it is. The AMGA Forum is live, up on our website, located under resources. Here you will find:
- Announcements and General Information
- AMGA Program Information
- Regional & International Route Conditions and Beta
The forum page is open to all AMGA Members to provide content and observations. We highly encourage folks to ask questions about programs, arrange car pools for peoples next course or exam, and submit observations/beta from your local areas.
The information contained on our forum has either been given to us or obtained from sources that we deem reliable. We have no reason to doubt its accuracy, but we do not guarantee it. The prospective user of the information should carefully verify each item and all other information contained or referred to on our resources and forum page.
30 April 2008 | AMGA Scoping Comments
Proposed Directives for Forest Service Outfitting and Guiding.
The American Mountain Guides Association offers comments and insights to the officials at the USDA Forest Service in help of the preparation of Proposed Directives for Forest Service Outfitting and Guiding. Attached is a (PDF) of the draft Directives.
Use on land and waters administered by the USDA Forest Service (FS) has historically fallen into three categories:
- Special Use Permits (SUP) or Priority Use or commercial use held primarily by outfitters and guides. Groups were required to have a SUP if:
- They charged a fee for their services
- Paid their staff
- Advertised to the general public
- Institutional Use. Institutional groups were basically all groups not required to have a SUP – colleges, Scouts, church groups, camps, county recreation programs.
- The general public
Predictably, this national policy – attempting to administer thousands of outfitters, guides and other groups – developed a number of serious flaws over the decades it was in place:- Institutional: The FS is by design a decentralized agency. A great deal of authority and discretion is delegated to the field. The Institutional category became too large and ill defined. In the eastern states, many colleges were required to secure SUPs. In the west, most colleges ran as institutional users. Confusion reigned over who was required to have permits.
- Access: As the outdoor recreation community has grown, more groups demanded access to FS lands and waters. Predictably, these groups lobbied for simple, reliable access and administrative procedures.
- Administration: As use ballooned, the FS recognized their need to administer and control group use. Managing for resource protection and quality experiences became the order of the day.
- Fees: In the last decade, the FS was granted new authorities to collect and retain user fees. With fee revenues and increasingly important element in their budget the FS had the incentive to bring more groups under administration. As fees have proliferated, many “institutional” groups have lobbied the agency for waivers from fees and any permit requirements.
The Proposed Directives:
The key element in the FS proposal is the division of commercial use into two categories:
Priority use and Temporary Use.
- Priority Use is essentially unchanged.
- Temporary Use: This new category of commercial use is intended to serve groups looking for smaller amounts of intermittent use on a forest.
- Institutional Use: An institutional category would remain in place under these policies. Not all groups would be required to register or secure permits. A truly “volunteer” organization that charges no fees – such as a Scout group – would remain free of administration.
- Public Use is unchanged.
Temporary Use
Core elements of the Temporary Use category include:
- Groups are deemed commercial if they are engaged in the sale of goods or services.
- All commercial groups would be required to secure either Priority or Temporary Use. One group can hold both types of permits.
- Each forest could create a pool of user days for Temporary users to draw from.
- The forest has the authority to design the pool and how use will be allocated: First- come, first-served, lottery or “some other method of allocation”.
- Applicants are allowed a maximum of 100 days per season or per year [there is a conflict in the Directives that needs to be clarified].
- Fees will be charged based on the amount of use requested. $150 for up to 50 days. $300 for 51 to 100 days.
- While no operating plan is required, FS would control itineraries for all commercial users. Directives are unclear on what kinds of itineraries Temporary groups would qualify for and how Temporary groups would clear requirements for NEPA review.
The AMGA strongly supports Accountable Group Use and Streamlined Access. Under the Streamlined Access draft Directives, the AMGA supports:
- Additional commercial access
- Potential access for additional/new commercial entities
- Streamlined access to new forests and districts
- Streamlined administrative procedures and fees
The AMGA offers recommendations and insights on the following topics regarding this draft Directives:
- Protecting the Public and Forest Service Resources
- Accreditation and Certification Limit Risk
- Performance Evaluation
- Existing Temporary Permits
- Delegation to the Field
- Consistency in Policy and Permitting
- Insurance
- Itineraries
- NEPA
- Allocation and Non-Use
- Increasing Allocation
- Priority Use Pool
18 March 2008 | Petzl ~ Official Headlamp Sponsor of the AMGA
Boulder, CO- Petzl America becomes the Official Headlamp Sponsor of the AMGA.
The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is pleased to announce that Petzl America has joined the AMGA as its newest Diamond Level Partner.
As the Official Headlamp Sponsor of the AMGA, Petzl America will help keep dark nights in the mountain alight by providing headlamps to core members of the AMGA Instructor Team and to select Certified Guides. In addition to the headlamp provisions, Petzl will offer a one full-tuition scholarship to an AMGA member per year. "As a Diamond Partner, we will actively participate in promoting the highest standards of professional guiding through education and certification," says Mark Givens, Sports Division Manager for Petzl America.
Petzl's core values of safety, education, and innovation are consistent with the AMGA mission and the fact that Petzl has been supporting the AMGA since 1990 shows their level of commitment to the guiding profession in the United States. "We are very excited to name Petzl the Official Headlamp Sponsor of the AMGA. We hope that other companies will see Petzl's proactive approach as an opportunity to support working guides and instructors," says Betsy Novak, Executive Director of the AMGA.
Petzl has joined the AMGA as one of eight Diamond level Partners.. A large percentage of the Diamond level partnership funds go directly to AMGA members in the form of subsidized exams and full tuition scholarships.
Petzl America is the U.S. division of Petzl, headquartered in France. For over 50 years, Petzl has been developing innovative tools and techniques used by those entering the vertical world. Today, the Petzl brand is closely associated with adventure, exploration, rescue, and many notable exploits in the worlds of rock climbing and alpinism. Petzl climbing hardware and headlamps can be found in outdoor specialty shops and premium sporting goods retailers around the world. For more information, log on to www.petzl.com.
The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is an educational non-profit organization that supports the climbing and alpine community by training climbing instructors, skiing instructors and mountain guides. Using internationally accepted standards, the AMGA provides certification and accreditation to enhance the quality of services available to the public, while serving as a resource for accessing and protecting the natural environment. For more information please visit www.amga.com.
18 March 2008 | New Partners Join AMGA in 2008
Please welcome New Partners to the AMGA
Please welcome New Partners to the AMGA The AMGA continues to grow our Corporate Partner Program and after meeting with current and potential partners at this winter's Outdoor Retailer Trade Show we would like to thank our core partners for their continued support and welcome on board new partners for 2008.
Petzl America signed on as the newest Diamond Partner of the AMGA and will become the official headlamp sponsor of our organization. Our Diamond Partners are committed to making a difference in the AMGA mission and the impact of its certified guides throughout the world. Diamond Partners contribute at least $10,000 each year and might sponsor courses and exams for an entire calendar year in a specific discipline, create a scholarship program in their company's name, or provide essential gear for the Instructor Team and programs by becoming a proud product sponsor of the AMGA.
Montrail came back on board for 2008 as a Benefactor Partner increasing their annual contribution to include one full-tuition scholarship open to candidates enrolled in any Rock or Alpine Program. Our Benefactors play a vital role in AMGA's continuing success by contributing at least $3,000 each year to our scholarship programs or extending our education, training, and certification activities. The AMGA counts on the critical mass of its Benefactor partners to enhance AMGA activities throughout the world.
Five Ten, Trango and Security National Insurance raised the bar by becoming Patron Partners of the AMGA. Our Patrons contribute at least $1,500 each year to support AMGA initiatives across a wide range of activities.
Atlas Snow-shoe Co., Kahru and Life Link have signed on as Supporting Partners of the AMGA. Becoming a Supporting Partner is a great way for individuals and companies alike to make a difference for the guiding community, Supporters contribute at least $500 each year to sustain AMGA's activities and programs.
We would like to give a warm welcome to all new AMGA Partners as well as a big thanks to all our current AMGA Partners. We could not do what we do without your support and generosity....!
12 March 2008 | Inaugural Certified Guides Federation Newsletter Now Available
Download Copy of CGF Newsletter Today
14 February 2008/ For Immediate Release
CWA and AMGA CREATE Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program
- Contact: Betsy Novak, Executive Director
- Phone: 303.271.0984
- Email: betsy@amga.com
Boulder, Colorado, 2/12/2008 — The Climbing Wall Association (CWA) and the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) signed an MOU to establish a Climbing Wall Instructor (CWI) Certification Program for climbing instructors throughout the USA.
The CWA/AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program has been piloted since April of 2007 in Colorado, Massachusetts, and North Carolina. Seven courses have run to date with more scheduled for 2008 as the program gains momentum. Over thirty students participated in the initial courses which were used to evaluate the concept of a climbing-wall-specific certification. The courses were well-received by the students and were quite successful. The first course to train future CWI providers will be offered at the 2008 Climbing Wall Summit in Boulder, Colorado. The course will be taught by AMGA President and Certified Rock and Alpine Guide John Bicknell.
The program addresses the basic technical skills necessary to manage an instructional program at a climbing facility. The course covers general topic areas such as: client orientation and instruction; teaching general climbing skills including movement; teaching top-rope and lead belaying techniques; equipment and facility use; and rescue and emergency procedures.
“This joint program with the CWA will be a great addition to the programs currently offered by the AMGA,” stated Betsy Novak, Executive Director of the AMGA. “This program will provide for a definitive, nation-wide certification for climbing instructors. The AMGA is a great partner in this effort given their internationally recognized experience offering credentialing programs,” stated Bill Zimmermann, Executive Director of the CWA.
About the AMGA
For over 25 years, the American Mountain Guides Association has been dedicated to supporting the guiding community through excellence in education, standards and certification to enhance the quality of services provided to the public while serving as a resource for accessing and protecting the natural environment. As a group, the AMGA presents a strong, unified voice for high standards of the professionalism of guiding and climbing instruction in the United States. The AMGA is our nation’s sole representative to the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA), the international governing body responsible for guiding standards and education around the world. For more information please visit www.amga.com
About the CWA
The CWA is a 501(c)(06), non-profit, industry trade association for manufacturers of climbing wall equipment, builders of climbing walls, operators of commercial climbing gyms, and others involved in the climbing gym industry. The mission of the Climbing Wall Association is to support the development of the climbing wall industry, to promote the sport of climbing, and to advocate for the interests of our members. The CWA offers standards for the operation of climbing walls, an insurance program for climbing facilities, standards-based training, and risk management consulting for member organizations.
18 January 2008/ 2008 AMGA Program Catalog Now Available
--Download PDF Copy of 2008 Catalog--
The All New 2008 AMGA Program Catalog is now available for download. Sporting all new photos and updated content, as well as the newly revised Program Application, this catalog is sure to become a collectors item. Click on PROGRAMS in the menu bar above and then select 2008 Program Catalog.
3 January 2008/ Bela Vadasz: 30 Years of Alpine Guiding
From Cowboy Guide to the Peak of His Profession, This Nor Cal Alpinist Has Led the Way
An only child, Bela’s formative childhood years were spent exploring the Sierra with his father, Bela, and mother, Eva.
“My family immigrated when I was three and I grew up in San Francisco and I had a really good opportunity with my parents to visit the Sierra — a lot. … In 1959, I pretty much started skiing and backpacking and peak bagging with my parents, and so I just got that deep-rooted love for the Sierra.”
Around this time, the backpacking boom of the ‘60s was getting underway. A young Bela was able to tag along on harder core trips with his dad’s Austrian friends, who shared a lot of their mountain savvy with him. “They inspired me tremendously,” he recalls.
Common destinations included the Tuolumne Meadows high country, Cathedral Peak and Mt. Lyell in Yosemite.
“We’d do like an 1l-day trip from Tioga Pass to Devil’s Postpile by Mammoth,” Bela remembers. “When I got a little older, about 10, we’d do a lot of peak ascents along the way – Class 2 (off-trail scrambling), Class 3 peaks (hand/foot holds needed), until we had to turn back … We didn’t know how to use a rope, didn’t have a rope.”
3 December 2007 | New AMGA Logo Use Policy
The AGMA has created a new logo use policy. Standardization of the AMGA logo and terminology used with it will help the public have a clear understanding of the AMGA and its various certification levels.
During the 2007 Annual Meeting the Board of Directors elected to create individual logos for each certification category. These logos are in the final design stage and will be available soon to our certified members. Along with the new logos, the Board of Directors also decided to adopt a licensing agreement stipulating how the logos are to be used. The logo use policy can be found here.
When requesting a logo for a discipline you are certified in, you must first submit a signed copy of the licensing agreement which will be available soon as a PDF on the website. Once the office receives your request for a logo and a signed licensing agreement, the ofice will send you a a JPEG copy of the logo.
As mentioned before both the logos and the licensing agreement will be available soon. Please contact the office if you have any questions and/or comments.
3 December 2007 | Disciplinary Procedures and Code of Ethics
At this years Annual Meeting in Yosemite, we successfully amended our by-laws and code of ethics, enabling the AMGA to raise its standards, to have a forum in which to address misconduct, and to strengthen our credibility with land managers.
As active members of the AMGA community it is important for all of use to be up-to-date on the latest changes taking place within our organization. In an effort to constantly improve, the Board of Directors in cooperation with the Technical Committee adopted a new Code of Ethics and instituted a set of Disciplinary Procedures. These steps are intended to raise the professionalism of our organization.
Please take a moment to look over these two documents. They can be found at, Code of Ethics(http://amga.com/about/code_of_ethics.php) and Disciplinary Procedure (http://amga.com/about/disciplinary_procedure.php).
1 November 2007 | Celebrating 10 Years as an IFMGA Member
Yosemite National Park, CA, October 21-23, 2007
The AMGA 2007 Annual Meeting in Yosemite, CA was a huge success! We had a great turnout ~ lots of good climbing, good food and good people. The atmosphere was productive and fun. It seemed that people enjoyed themselves and were genuinely excited to be there. The Professional Development Clinics went smoothly and the AMGA raised over $4,000 with the Silent Auction and Raffle. Overall the event was great and it would not have been possible without the help of a lot of folks.
First, we would like to thank our Title Sponsor, Patagonia and Opening Night Sponsor, Marmot. A big thanks goes out to OR, Arc'Teryx, Black Diamond, Gore, Brooks-Range, The North Face, Petzl, and Mammut .... we could not have done it without your support.
Also, we would like to thank Kyle and Cindy Lefkoff for their contribution to the this years meeting as well as their continued support of the AMGA.
Many thanks go out to Sara and Dave Bengston & Yosemite Mountaineering School for all their help and support in organizing this year's annual meeting and BOD dinner.
We were delighted that Lynn Hill was able to be the Presenter at 2007 meeting. Lynn presented a phenomenal slide show, Rocks Around the World ~ Tour and Technique, at our Main Event. Lynn's feats in Yosemite are legendary as well as her entire climbing history. It was a true pleasure having her join us in the Valley.
Thanks to Doug Nidever and his crew for organizing another incredible Guide Olympics.....I had the opportunity to participate and it was a definite highlight in my week.
Also, were would we have been without the gracious beer donations from New Belgium Brewery and Sierra Neveda. Cheers to you!
AMGA 2008 Board of Directors:
John Bicknell, Margaret Wheeler, Angela Hawse, Rob Hess, Phil Powers, John Race, Jim Williams, Keith Garvey, Pete Takeda, Jim Pearson, John Winsor, Peter Gould, Adam Fox, Dale Remsberg, Evan Stevens….We would also like to welcome Angela Hawse as the new AMGA Vice President.
Thank you past BOD Members:
Maury McKinney, Matt Brooks, Clint Cook, Dave Bengston, and Alan Jolley.
AMGA 2007 Awards:
This years Award recipients were honored and celebrated at the Annual Meeting with a great turnout in a most inspiring venue, Yosemite National Park. The Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award went to George Hurley for his 50+years career as a mountain guide. He is one of the few who has put more first ascents than anyone and has more loving clients around the USA than most will ever dream of….he’s an inspiration for all of us other guides and climbers.
The Outstanding Guide of the Year Award went to Rob Hess, an owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, AMGA Technical Director and IFMGA Certified Guide. As Technical Director and AMGA Director, in the 2006-7 season, Rob impressively lead the implementation of the AMGA's Training and Certification Program restructure. He did this with speed and urgency and with this, has left a legacy for all present and future American guides. This restructure will greatly benefit all candidates who aspire to become professional guides in the industry.
The President’s Award honored Peter Absolon, the NOLS Rocky Mountain director and former AMGA board member, in recognition of his guiding, climbing skills and love of the mountains. Peter died Saturday, August. 10, 2007 in a rock-fall accident at the Leg Lake Cirque in the Wind River Range. Peter was a passionate climber and will be dearly missed.
Winner of 2007 Guide Olympics:
Gentleman of Leisure - Evan Stevens, Joe Vallone, Amos Whiting.
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